Discovering norway: A story in two parts
A natural sculpture garden: “PASANASAP” by Carol Bove. PHOTO BY MIRANDA CARNESSALE
By Zippy Downing and Miranda Carnessale
A NATURAL REVEAL
Pulling into an empty parking lot in the morning light, we were beckoned into the adjacent woods by the smell of fresh pine, gentle murmur of flowing water, and mysterious brightly colored monoliths. Kistefos Sculpture Park unfolded in front of us, a living canvas where art and nature intertwine. As we continued along the forested pathway, the trees lifted their verdant curtain for a grand reveal of what can only be described as a ‘what-the-actual-f**k’ location. There it was: The Twist.
The Twist is a gallery, a bridge, and a sculpture, all in one. Clad in brilliant aluminum sheets fanned out like a deck of cards, the structure spans gracefully over the Randselva River before torquing at its center. The gallery interior completes the promise of its gilded exterior: Walking through the Twist feels like passing through the shutter of a camera, as walls and ceiling spiral into a mesmerizing curve.
The Twist is more than a modern masterpiece—it’s a bridge in every sense, linking Norway’s industrial past with its creative future. Built on the grounds of a 19th-century pulp mill, the museum preserves the nation’s industrial heritage while reimagining it for the next generation.
This was the first of many memorable sites we visited during our five-day adventure in Norway. The mastermind behind our meticulously planned tour was Joachim Lyng, owner of the production service company Film in Norway. With a reputation as both a skilled location scout and line producer, Joachim has a knack for solving the logistical challenges of filmmaking while highlighting the country’s most breathtaking landscapes.
FILM IN NORWAY FOUNDER JOACHIM LYNG, LEFT, AND PREBEN DIMMEN, RIGHT, ESCORT US ON A SPECTACULAR AERIAL TOUR OF NORWAY’S WESTERN FJORDS. PHOTO BY ZIPPY DOWNING
Joachim shared some of his insight into the cultural and physical terrain of Norway—an education in its sociology as much as its geography. “What sets Norway apart is the way we can blend heritage with progress. You see it in our architecture, our landscapes, and the way locals interact with filmmakers,” he explained.
He wasn’t wrong. This interplay of architecture and nature was a theme of our scouting trip. The Norwegians’ ability to weave byways and structures into their hardy landscapes is cutting edge. At Trollstigen, we flew drones to capture bird’s-eye views of the serpentine mountain road and the angular Visitor Center nested above. The raw steel and concrete structure seems like it would be out of place in this environment, yet it perfectly compliments the mountain’s natural contours.
THE LOEN SKY LIFT OFFERS SWEEPING VIEWS FROM EVERY ANGLE. PHOTO BY ZIPPY DOWNING
From the nearby town of Stryn, the Loen Skylift whisked us 1,000 meters up above the Nordfjord to a glass-walled observation deck. As the gondola doors opened with a woosh, we took in a breath of crisp air, only to have that breath stolen by the panorama on display: a tapestry of deep blue fjords and tourmaline forests, interspersed with dramatic cliffs that rise like ancient sentinel. It’s no wonder Tom Cruise and his Mission: Impossible team chose this stunning region to feature in one of the most grandiose stunts in cinema history - a cliffside motorcycle launch ending in a base jump from nearby Helsetkopen mountain. After a brief touchdown at sea level, we proceeded to Galdhøpiggen Ski Center where we clambered aboard a state-of-the-art snowcat to ascend Norway’s tallest peak. Careful not to fall while dashing along the summit’s shaky talus, we ogled an endless sea of glaciers from our perch at the top of the world.
We were introduced to Ålesund from a hillside observation deck, where Film in Norway’s Preben Dimmen, a local guide with deep knowledge of the area, provided a literal overview of the city below. Born and raised in the town, Prebin shared how Ålesund rose from the ashes of a devastating fire at the turn of the 20th century, rebuilt entirely in the Art Nouveau style.
AN AERIAL VIEW OF ÅLESUND GIVES THE FULL PICTURE OF ITS COHESIVE AESTHETIC. PHOTO BY ZIPPY DOWNING
From above, the pastel-painted facades stretch out like a picnic of architectural delights, framed by winding streets that flow like rivers through the town. The sea wraps around the city, mirroring the hues of its buildings and the vibrant energy of daily life, making it clear why this city is a treasure for both filmmakers and visitors alike.
Preben then led us to Alnes Lighthouse, a captivating landmark located on adjacent Godøy Island. The structure boasts distinctive red and white stripes, and as we were guided to the lantern room by an enthusiastic film student named Samuel, we learned that the lighthouse serves as both a historical monument and a functioning beacon.
We pushed on to Ocean Sound Recording, designed to look like a boathouse, reminiscent of the structures that used to stand on this part of the island when it was a harbor. We delighted in photographing not just the colorful interior, but the adjacent rustic dock and windswept white sand beach. As Joachim pointed out, “We’ve found a way to showcase our landscapes while keeping them accessible—filmmakers can shoot snowy mountains in the morning and sandy beaches by the afternoon.”
Bookending our day in town, bathed in golden light, we scouted the perfectly preserved period architecture of Ålesund at magic hour. Every angle, every direction, seemed like it had been lifted from a storybook. It felt almost as if we had stepped onto the set of a fairytale kingdom—swap the cobblestones for gold, and we might have been standing in a scene straight out of Wicked.
Our Norway experience wasn’t just a tour of cinematic locations—it was a passage through space and time, reflecting the country’s dynamic architectural history and distinctive cultural heritage. Each destination revealed a layer of Norway’s story, woven together by the unique modes of transportation which further informed the narrative. Whether traveling via snow cat or sky lift, every moment reminded us of Norway’s ability to pair rugged natural beauty with an infrastructure that allows you to experience it in its quintessence.
Stay tuned for part II of Discovering Norway, where we find the meaning of FAM-ily in the Western Fjords, cruising earth, water and air…
Zippy scouts the fjords by ferry. PHOTO BY MIRANDA CARNESSALE.
To contact Film in Norway, email Joachim Lyng at joachim@filminnorway.com
The Norwegian Film Commission can be reached by contacting Meghan Beaton at meghan@norwegianfilm.com